As part of the lecture "In the Sign of Ambrose: Milan and Lombardy in the Early Middle Ages", we set out on the first of our study trips at the
beginning of May 2011. Milan, at the crossroads of the great east-west and north-south thoroughfares from the Balkans to Gaul
and from Africa and Rome to the Alpine regions, became the main seat of imperial power in the western half of the orbis romanus during the
time of Bishop Ambrose (4th century). One of the main goals of our Milan trip was to become acquainted with Ambrose as a commissioner of luxury
artifacts as well as Ambrose as a theologian, whose texts influenced artistic production throughout Lombardy for several centuries after his
death. Our first steps led us to the Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio, which, although destroyed during World War II, conceals several exceptional
medieval artifacts. These include, for example, Stilikon's sarcophagus with complex political iconography, the mosaics of the Chapel of San Vittore
in Ciel d'oro and the Golden Altar of Ambrose, a masterpiece of Carolingian goldsmithery. Thanks to a special permit, we were able to see
Ambrose's golden altar close up, before the eyes of envious tourists. In the basement of today's cathedral, where the archeological excavations of
its predecessor, dedicated to St. Thecla, have been partially opened to the public, we had the opportunity to compare the construction techniques
setting the imperial building apart from the Ambrosian one. In the adjacent baptistery, we attempted to reconstruct the course of baptism in the
4th century. Its imperial commission can be sensed in the construction of the most beautiful early Christian church in Milan, San Lorenzo, and
the mosaics in the chapel of Sant'Aquilino. In many ways, the highlight of the trip was the challenging ascent along a dry riverbed to Castelseprio,
near the town, where we were enchanted by the medieval murals in the church of Santa Maria foris portas, which have confused many important
art historians with their quality and formal uniqueness.
Zuzana Frantová
(Translated by Veronika Hermanová)
